L-M BRIC News No. 4,                               2001-03-10 © Revised 2002

L-M Braiding Research & Information Center / Masako Kinoshita

5 Winthrop Place, Ithaca, NY 14850 U. S. A.

Phone & Fax 607-257-0886 e-mail mkinoshi@twcny.rr.com
 

Notes

1) The word 'lace' (material noun) here means openwork fabric in patterns used for trimming to decorate garments, etc., and shouldn't be confused with 'lace' (regular noun) used such as 'shoe lace' or eTreatise for Making of Laces.'

2) Spelled also as 'Katheren wheele,' 'Kattern wheele' or 'Cattorn wele' in the original pattern books.

3) Records from several nearly identical 17-th c. English pattern books have been analyzed and discussed in, N. Speiser, CIETA Bulletin 50, 1979-II; ibid. The Manual of Braiding, Private Pub., 1983, 2nd ed. 1986; ibid., Old English Pattern Books for Loop Braiding, Private Pub., 2000. See also A. Dyer, Purse Strings Unravelled, Craven Arms: Westhrope College, 1997.

4) 'Treatise for Making of Laces' is a portion of a 15th-c. Household book, "The Tollemache Book of Secrets." It is an well-organized record of l-m technique written by Lady Catherine Tollemache. Speiser's new book (Note 3) is the most comprehensive thesis of this treatise.

5) I. Estham & N. Speiser, 'A loop braided lace insertion on a late medieval sudary in Uppsala Cathedral,' CIETA Bulletin, 74, 1997, pp. 96-107.

6) Milton Sonday, research fellow, Smithsonian Cooper Hewitt, National Design Museum.

7) Alarcao, T. Seabra, J., Imagens em Paramentos bordados, seculos XIV a XVI = Images in paramento embroideries, the XIVth to XVIth centuries, Lisbon: Portuguese Institute of Museums, 1993.

8) Marie-Louise Franzen; Assistant curator at the treasury of the Cathedral of Uppsala.

9) Ute Bargmann works in Special Collection and Archives at the Library of University of Massachusetts, Amherst, MA. She is also an accomplished weaver, specializing in old pattern weaves among others. When she found the dragon braid note, she had had a short workshop with me about six months earlier.

10) L-M BRIC News issue no. 1, 1998.

11) The term spelled as "boe," "bowe" or "bow" in the English records from the 15th- and 17th-centuries means "loop" as we call it in our publication.

12) While we have no idea where the word "private stitch" comes from, Speiser has concluded after a careful and thorough analysis that "private it means the transfer in which the top shank of a loop becomes the bottom shank at the end.

13) In transferring a loop its top shank may stay the same after the transfer (open transfer) or it may become bottom shank (cross transfer). To achieve an "open" transfer, you may (1) scoop up the top shank, or (2) hook up the bottom shank. To make a "cross" transfer, you may (3) hook up the top shank, or (4) scoop up the bottom shank. We more often see the following combinations in actual practice: taking the top shank for both (a combination of 1 and 3) or scooping up the shanks for both (a combination of 1 and 4). English records so far known has consistently shown the latter was their preference.

14) Speiser provides her own answer in MB, ed. 86, p. 78, for procedures in which loops are transferred crossed and exchanged. See also Speiser, Old English Pattern Books for Loop Braiding, p. 38 also p. 59.